My name is Jack I am a cosmetic formulation chemist with over 8 years of experience in skincare product development. I have been extensively researching traditional African skincare ingredients and their modern applications. My experience includes working with natural soap formulations and high/low pH sensitive cleansing systems. This article is based on existing peer-reviewed research, documentation of traditional knowledge, and personal testing experience with various black soap formulations.

Why This “Black Soap” Is Trending Again

African black soap has been creeping up into skincare conversations due to three main reasons. Influencers rave about its traditional anti-acne properties, while advocates for cleaner beauty enjoy the shorter list of only a few ingredients, most of which are produced sustainably. Scientists grew intrigued by the soap due to its interesting pH profile, how it interacts with our skin and cleaning ability due to the natural antimicrobial compounds in plantain ash.

The increased popularity is due to the consumer’s realization regarding the damage the over-cleaning of skin causes. People become interested in gentler, plant-based alternatives to harsh sulfate cleansers. However, its popularity also came with a bit of confusion regarding misuse and expectations.

What It Actually Is: From Ingredients to Process

African Black soap, known traditionally as “ose dudu” in Yoruba culture, comes from West Africa, namely Nigeria and Ghana. The traditional manufacturing requires producing lye from the ash of plantain peel, and saponification done through cold process, combining it with Palm Kernel Oil, coconut oil, and Shea butter.

Key Ingredients and Roles

• Plantain ash: contains potassium hydroxide to saponify palm oil; provides trace minerals and antioxidants.
• Palm kernel oil: forms a creamy base enriched with natural glycerin.
• Shea butter: provides conditioning.
• Cocoa pod ash: contributes to the alkaline profile and brown color.

Hand-stirred by tradition, variations in color & texture can be expected in authentic Black Soap, ranging from brown to gray, with an earthy scent and a rich patina of moisturizing oils that are retained in cold processing.

Clinical Data and Efficacy

Estimated efficacy data of formulations compared in clinical trials is not available.

Studies of the antimicrobial activity of African black soap provide evidence of efficacy against common skin bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes. A 2019 study showed the base had a high bactericidal effect, including when compared to traditional soap bases, as a result of phenolic compounds obtained from plantain and cocoa extracts.

The pH Dispute

Real black soap ranges from 9–11, which is much higher than the skin’s natural acidity of 4.5–5.5 pH.

• Short exposure (<60 s): minimally disruptive.
• Extended exposure: may impair the skin barrier.

Research suggests this may explain why some users experience less tightness despite the high pH compared to sodium-based soaps.

Who Should Use It? Who Should Avoid It?

• Oily, acne-prone skin: May benefit most. Start 2–3 times per week, 30 seconds max contact, followed by a moisturizer with ceramides or hyaluronic acid.
• Combination skin: Use on T-zone only; monitor drier areas.
• Dry, sensitive, impaired skin: Best avoided, especially for those with rosacea, eczema, or recent retinoid use.
• Body and scalp: Usually tolerated, but not recommended for scalp-sensitive or chemically-treated hair due to cuticle damage risk.

Practice Points: Getting the Most While Doing the Least

• Work up a rich lather in palms—never apply bar directly.
• Limit face contact to 20–30 seconds, targeting oily areas only.
• Start infrequently, increase as tolerated.
• Do not combine with other actives (salicylic acid, retinoids, vitamin C) on the same day.

Stop If:

• Stinging persists after 10 minutes.
• Skin breaks out more after first week.
• Signs of barrier damage (flakiness, sensitivity).

Emergency protocol: Rinse with cool water, apply petrolatum, seek dermatologist if unresolved in 48 hours.

Authenticity and Quality: Selecting Products You Can Trust

Signs of Genuine African Black Soap

• Appearance: crumbly, irregular, unattractive organic mass.
• Color: dark brown to black.
• Consistency: dry, softens when wet.
• Ingredient list: short (plantain ash, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, shea butter).

Be cautious of straight-edged bars, synthetic fragrances, long ingredient lists, or overly commercialized appearances. True soap may have a thin layer of harmless white ash (potassium carbonate) and a natural earthy/nutty scent.

Tip: Look for fair trade certification, transparency in sourcing, and certificates for heavy metal/microbiological testing.

Comparing Black Soap: Different Versions

African Black Soap vs Kojic Acid Soap

• Kojic acid soap: Depigmenting; inhibits tyrosinase. pH 6–7; risks include photosensitivity.
• African black soap: Not a depigmentant; works through mild exfoliation and cellular turnover, creating a brightening effect.

African Black Soap vs Moroccan Black Soap (Beldi)

• Moroccan black soap (Beldi): Olive oil paste, applied with exfoliating gloves in hammam treatments.
• African black soap: Solid bar, daily cleansing. Different pH, application, and cultural context.

Sustainability and Cultural Context

African black soap manufacturing preserves traditional knowledge and provides income for women’s cooperatives in West Africa. The use of cocoa pod waste supports a circular economy, reducing agricultural waste.

However, global commercialization risks cultural appropriation and exploitation. Supporting genuine, community-based producers helps ensure traditional knowledge enriches its origin communities.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use it daily?

Not recommended for most skin types. Begin with 2–3 times per week. Avoid if sensitive.

Will it make my skin drier?

Yes, due to alkaline pH. Always follow with moisturizer.

Is it safe for face and body?

Safer for body than face. Test patch first, especially if sensitive.

Can pregnant women use it?

Ingredients are safe, but high pH may irritate. Consult healthcare provider.

How should I store it?

Keep in a dry, ventilated soap dish with drainage to avoid softening and bacterial growth. Texture will be preserved.

Conclusion and Action Plan

African black soap offers genuine skincare benefits—natural antimicrobial action and mild exfoliation—but its high pH requires caution and proper technique.

Pre-Use Checklist

• Patch test on forearm (48 hours).
• Allergy test (24 hours).
• Start on clean, dry skin.
• Limit face contact to 30 seconds.
• Always moisturize afterward.
• Avoid combining with other exfoliants.

Stop Using If:

• Drying persists despite moisturizer.
• Reaction occurs after 3 weeks.
• Signs of contact allergy appear.

If problems continue, stop immediately, focus on barrier repair, and consult a dermatologist.